Visiting Peru during the Rainy Season: Is It Worth It? My Experience and What to Expect

So, you’re going to Peru. That’s fantastic! Peru has it all: ancient history, vibrant culture, world-class food, and some of the most jaw-dropping landscapes in the world. But before you book your flight and pack your bags, there’s something important you should know about the seasons.

Unlike what we’re used to in Europe or North America, Peru doesn’t really follow the four classic seasons of spring, summer, fall, and winter. Instead, there are just two: dry season and rainy season.

• Dry season runs from May to October. This is when you’ll have clear skies, minimal rainfall, and the best chance for those postcard-perfect views of the Andes. It’s also when most people choose to visit, so expect bigger crowds and higher prices, especially in June–September.

• Rainy season lasts from November to April. During these months, you can expect afternoon showers, lush green valleys, and a more unpredictable hiking experience. February in particular tends to be the rainiest month, and certain treks (like the Inca Trail) actually close for maintenance and safety.

Because of this, the summer months of June to September are considered high season - the busiest time of year to visit Peru. Machu Picchu, Cusco, and Sacred Valley are buzzing with tourists, trekking permits sell out months in advance, and you’ll definitely need to plan ahead.

But here’s the big question: is it worth visiting Peru during rainy season (December-March)?

Based on my own experience, absolutely. But it also depends on your expectations and what you want to do in Peru.

During our sabbatical in South America, our itinerary brought us to Peru in March, therefore still rainy season. I had been dreaming of visiting Peru for years, and my top priority was Machu Picchu. So I was ready to “test” rainy season, as long as I could make it to Machu Picchu.

Other than that, we were also excited to do some hiking in the Andes. We had read that March wasn’t as bad as January or February (we were expecting just a short shower in the morning or afternoon). But we also read warnings about certain areas, like Huaraz in the north, where rain can be relentless, so much so that even local operators advised us against hiking there in March. That was enough for us to skip it. Instead, we focused on Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Cusco, and finally Machu Picchu.

Foggy Colca Canyon

A few hours drive from Arequipa, we made our way to Cabanaconde, a small city perched on the edge of the Colca Canyon - one of the deepest canyons in the world (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in US!). From Cabanaconde, there are several hiking trails that take you all the way down to the floor of the canyon. Here, you can find a few magical oases where you can also spend the night. We really wanted to do this, but decided to first check the weather in Cabanaconde and make a last minute game plan.

Unfortunately, the entire time we were there, it was extremely foggy. Our first day was so bad, that we couldn't see a thing 5 meters from us, let alone seeing a Canyon!

Colca Canyon - or at least I think it's there?!

The next morning, we woke very early, hoping for better luck. For about 15 minutes, the fog lifted and we got a glimpse of the canyon… and then, the fog swallowed everything again.

Colca Canyon is also famous for its condors. Needless to say we saw no condor.

On the bright side, as we spent lots of time in the town, we got to bond with some of the locals, who really stood out to us for their friendliness and kindness. Reid even made friends with a restaurant owner and helped her cook our lomo saltado!

One of my favorite moments of our whole South America trip!

Snow at Palccoyo and rain in Ausangate

Somehow still smiling and happy!

Next, we moved on to Cusco, where we decided to try our luck with a couple of high-altitude hikes: Rainbow Mountain (Palccoyo) and the 7 Lakes of Ausangate. The pictures looked incredible! And while we didn't expect blue skies, we were still hoping for decent visibility.

Getting to Palccoyo was a feat in itself: waking up at 4:30 AM, driving on a bumpy bus ride for 6 hours, finally getting to the trail head... you'd hope you get rewarded for the effort, but nope! As we started hiking, rain shifted to snow and visibility dropped. I’m glad we were prepared with waterproof and warm gear, so we didn’t suffer too much, but I do wish we had better weather to enjoy the views!

At Ausangate, things weren’t much better. The hike began okay. We could see the glacier at the mountain’s base, which was quite special, but just as we reached the first lake, the heavens opened. It poured. And it never stopped.

Honestly… it sucked 😅 The trail turned into slippery mud, and the views disappeared completely. Wrapped in plastic ponchos, we trudged past each of the lakes, pausing only briefly to “admire” the grey water before pushing on. We were so desperate to be done that we finished a 5–6 hour hike in just 4 hours.

I'll let this photo speak for itself.

The very next day, we learned about a landslide accident on the Salkantay trek at Laguna Humantay, where 24 tourists got stranded in the rain. We were both shocked because we had considered going to Laguna Humantay instead of Ausangate. And if we had, we would have likely gotten stranded as well, or even worse, injured in the landslide.

A miracle at Machu Picchu

Finally, the moment I had been waiting for: Machu Picchu.

When we arrived in Aguas Calientes, you guessed it... it was absolutely pouring, and it didn’t stop the whole day. But early the next morning, as we made our way up to the ruins, something magical happened: the clouds parted, the rain stopped, and we even got a touch of sunshine.

And as we left Machu Picchu, it started raining again. I like to think all the rain we endured elsewhere was karma’s way of giving us a perfect moment at this world wonder.

And what about the cities?

Our city experiences were also impacted by the weather. In Arequipa, clouds covered the volcanoes the whole time, and we never got those stunning views the city is known for.

In Cusco, we had days of heavy rain. But the city itself is charming rain or shine and there’s always something to do: wandering the cobblestone streets, sipping coffee in a cozy café, visiting museums, or simply enjoying the lively atmosphere. Unlike hiking, sightseeing in the rain is manageable, even pleasant at times.

But in the nature, it's different.

My two cents

Looking back, my experience in Peru during rainy season was… not great. Maybe we were particularly unlucky, but here’s my honest take:

• Hiking in rainy season? I wouldn’t recommend it. Not only are the views often hidden, but it can also be unsafe with landslides and unpredictable storms.

• City sightseeing in rainy season? Totally fine. A bit of rain won’t stop you from enjoying Peru’s culture, food, and history.

• Machu Picchu? You might get lucky like us, or you might not. It’s a gamble, but one worth taking if that’s the only time you can go.

So my advice?

• If you want to hike and explore Peru’s nature at its best, plan your trip in dry season, ideally in May or October when crowds are thinner but the weather is still good.

• If you’re more focused on culture, food, and avoiding the crowds, rainy season can still work - just be ready for plans to shift.

• And let's not forget: while it’s rainy in the Andes from December to April, the coastal regions (Lima, Ica, Trujillo) are actually dry and sunny at that time of year.

In short: Peru is incredible no matter when you go. But if trekking and nature are your priorities, I would advise you to wait for dry season.

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