We hiked the W Trek in Torres del Paine - Here’s how it went (Travel Diaries Day 40)

January 29. This was the date we were set to take a bus that would bring us from Puerto Natales to the entrance of Torres del Paine National Park: the start of the W Trek.

This was going to be my first ever multi-day hike. Considering that before going on this trip I had never hiked for more than 6 km, saying that I was nervous is an understatement!

On the morning when we were set to leave for Torres del Paine, we realized last minute that my backpack was too small. So I had to run to a rental place to get a bigger backpack just 1 hour before our bus left. And then, when I finally put it on... I got hit by some of the worst back pain I've had in my life! I often get stress-related knots on my back when I'm nervous, and this was the worst moment to have back pain. On top of that, my legs were still sore from our hike in El Chaltén and I honestly wasn’t sure I’d make it through five days with that weight on my shoulders.

But there was no turning back now. We boarded on the bus to Torres del Paine, with only one way to go: forward.

Day 1: The One with the Rain

The first day started with pouring rain. As we arrived in Torres del Paine, there was a big, thick cloud cover which obscured all the views - I'm sure the scenery getting to the park was amazing, but we didn't see a thing! The worst moment was waiting for the shuttle to the welcome center: we were completely unsheltered, under pouring rain, really putting our rain gear to the test!

We were already completely drenched when we arrived at the trailhead. Our rain jackets and rain pants still holding up, on we went!

Despite the grey skies, the views were already beautiful: waterfalls coming down the mountains, rivers roaring through the valley, parting clouds giving in to wonderful landscapes.

After a couple of hours, we made it to our destination: Refugio Chileno. Here we were going to spend our first night, sleeping in a tent.

Camping at Chileno

Refugio Chileno

Our luxury tent for the night

Chileno is tiny but cozy. Our tent was huge and felt really luxurious! Also, the chef at Chileno was something else, that night’s dinner surpassed all our expectations: veggie soup, lasagna, and flan as dessert! We chatted with a few hikers who were completing the trek in the opposite direction. Listening to their stories was exciting, as it made us think about the adventures we would have in the days ahead! Finally, we went back to our cozy tent and fell asleep to the roar of the nearby river.

Day 2: The One with That Famous View

We woke up at 5 AM with all the good intentions of hiking up to Base Torres for sunrise, but it was still pouring rain and so we went back to sleep. We waited until 9:00, when finally the clouds broke and we seized the moment.

We left our heavy backpack behind and started the climb to Base Torres. The first hour was great - sunny, gorgeous views. Then came that final kilometer. Huge boulders, steep scrambles, my backpack weighing me down… I was so frustrated.

As I had done the Laguna de los Tres hike in El Chalten one week earlier, which was already pretty challenging, I was hoping this last km here would not be as difficult (if you have done the Laguna de los Tres hike... you know what I'm talking about!). At Chileno, I had made friends with two fellow hikers who had already come back down from the Towers, and they had said: "It's not as bad as El Chalten!". So, my expectation was this would be easier... but for me, it turned out really challenging! I was out of breath halfway through, and the climb felt like it would never end. On multiple occasions I stopped only so that I could swear haha. In my defense though, while I had left most of my stuff at Chileno, my backpack was still quite heavy - and in hindsight I should have left it all down, that would have made a significant difference.

But we made it to the top... and wow. The towers stood tall and proud against a blue sky, the glacial lake shimmering below in its vibrant green colors. It was magical, and not too crowded either. We took some time to rest and have a snack, soaking up all the views.

Do you see the W???

Finally, we hiked back all the way down to Refugio Central for our second night. It took 4 very long hours, and we were so tired by the time we arrived!

The refugio is pretty big and was very comfortable. The main area by the restaurant has huge windows with scenic views over the towers.

Stunning views from Central

Dinner wasn't as good as Chileno, but we had some nice vegetable soup and chicken with couscous.

We slept in a dorm that night, and I'm so glad we did: as soon as my head touched the pillow, I was knocked out for the next 10 hours!

Day 3: The One Where My Shoes Betrayed Me

This was by far my favorite day throughout the whole trek! The hike from Refugio Central to Refugio Cuernos is gorgeous. It goes by the coastline of Lago Nordenskjöld, a spectacular lake with turquoise water and insane views of the iconic Cuernos peaks.

We were lucky to have fantastic weather that made the day even more enjoyable. We took several stops along the way, and it took us 6 hours overall, only because we were essentially having a stroll in the park, stopping at every viewpoint, taking loads of pictures, and having long snack breaks.

But halfway through, I felt something weird in my foot. I looked down... and gasped in horror.

My shoes were falling apart. The soles were literally peeling off.

All I could think was: “Please just get me to Cuernos. Please just get me to Cuernos.”

Now here's a funny thing: one our first day, in the welcome center, we had met a Canadian guy who had just finished his trek. His shoes were covered in duct tape - they were severely broken and only held together because of the tape. I remember thinking then "Wow that sucks. I'm glad my shoes are holding up."

WELL. GUESS WHO CALLED IT.

Following this guy's cue, we asked every hiker we passed by for duct tape, but we had no luck. Luckily the shoes survived until Cuernos, and there I was able to borrow some duct tape from the staff and do a patch job.

The refugio has a gorgeous picnic area by the restaurant, where we took advantage of the glorious weather. We basked in the sun with new friends that we made along the way. We played Uno, drank some wine, and chatted getting to know each other until it was dark. It was such a warm, happy moment after a long day of hiking.

Day 4: The One with Toughest Hike

Today was going to be the toughest day of all. Another long 24 km hike with a 1000 m elevation gain! After patching up my shoes with more duct tape, we hiked to Campamento Italiano, where we dropped our heavy bags and headed up to mirador Francés.

From there, I was so tempted to skip the extra 7km to mirador Británico. My shoes were flopping, the duct tape starting to come off, and I was tired. But talking with other hikers, their contagious energy convinced me. And I’m glad I went! The trail was surprisingly easy and the views at the top were insane.

We rushed back down to Campamento Italiano, had a quick lunch (at 4 pm 😅), and pushed through the final 7.5km to Paine Grande. We were tired but so motivated to get to the refugio, we totally crushed it with a great pace. We were so happy to see Paine Grande appear at the end of the trail!

Beautiful views from Paine Grande

That night, we stayed in a dorm all to ourselves. That was surprising as everyone else was in a dorm with at least 6 beds, but our room only had 1 bed bunk, all for the 2 of us. We had dinner (this time it was buffet style, and not so great), then gathered again with our trail friends at the bar for a celebratory drink and exchanging stories from the day. It was one of the best nights of the trek!

Day 5: The One with the Glacier

The last day of hiking (a short day - "only" 11km to Refugio Grey). The fatigue was real. My foot hurt, it was cold and windy, and the path was as rocky as ever.

Slowly but surely, we made it to our last stop.

As we got closer to the refugio, I started to feel a little emotional. Up until that point, I had never felt totally sure we were going to make it all the way to the end. This whole trek always felt like a huge achievement for me, and I was so worried my body would give in - what if I got too tired, what if my back would hurt all the time, what if I got injured, what if.... But here we were. The refugio was just a few meters away now. I turned to Reid and took a moment, just the two of us. We did it. My eyes teared up. It’s really the end.

Camping at Grey for the last night

From Grey, we had the opportunity to hike a little further to the hanging bridges - 2 suspension bridges with epic views over the Grey Glacier. But my shoes had truly given their all, so we decided to officially end our W trek there. Instead, we walked to a nearby mirador over the lake. We were met with a beautiful, but sad view: it was a pool of melting ice, coming straight from the glacier. We stood there for a while, just watching in silence. Contemplating and reflecting.

That evening, it was all about celebration. We met again with our trail friends for some beers, played card games, and enjoyed the ecstatic feeling of having accomplished an incredible feat.

Day 6: The One with Goodbyes and a New Pair of Shoes

After a rainy night and slow morning, it was finally time to get back to civilization. We bid farewell to our friends and waved goodbye to the park. On the way out, we took a ferry over Lago Grey, which brought us super close to Glacier Grey. Watching the glacier from the boat, drifting past gigantic icebergs and windswept landscapes, I was overwhelmed with pride, awe, and a tiny bit of sadness.

We did it. We hiked for 80km through one of the most beautiful landscapes on earth. I doubted myself so many times, but here I was 5 days later, with a few sore muscles but safe and sound, and proud of my achievement.

There was only one thing left to do. Upon reaching our hostel in Puerto Natales, I grabbed my hiking boots and threw them straight into the trash.

Final Thoughts: What Hiking the W Trek Taught Me

Happiness overload!

The W Trek definitely tested me - physically and emotionally. But I came out stronger and prouder than ever. Here's what I’ll take with me:

• While being prepared for any event is important, what's even more important is remaining flexible. Things will go wrong. The weather changes, it rains, hiking boots break. What truly matters is how you react: you adapt, replan, and sometimes accept that things don't always go the way you planned.

• Disconnecting from the world helped me reconnect with nature, with the present moment, with Reid, and with amazing people from all over the world. The best part of this hike is sharing the adventure with others who are going through the same challenges and experiences as you, finding that spirit of community even with people you didn't know before.

• The body and mind are way stronger than we think. I used to be the kind of person who would be scared to push my limits, letting body pain and tiredness stop me from doing things I set my mind to. But during this hike, even when I was in pain, sore and fatigued, there was no choice but to go forward. I learned that I could go beyond my own limits, and that those limits are often mental.

We were sad to leave the park behind, but also so full of love for what we had experienced. Patagonia is truly one of the most stunning places on this planet and I hope we’ll be back someday - perhaps we'll attempt the O Circuit next?!

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If you're planning to hike the W Trek, check out my full guide! I have written all about the trek, from day-to-day itineraries, to booking your campsites, what to pack and much more!

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